|This poor drill has yet to even drill a hole, and already it's been permanently disfigured.|
This god damned drill bit was $20, and I could only find half inch shank, so I had to turn down bout half of it, lol fml. The chuck I use on my tailstock is 1/2". That's what makes having to modify it suck so bad. I would have used that drill bit in the lathe, as is, no doubt about it, I still will, as is, which is not as was. I'll be damned if putting a 5/8" hole in something aint got the potential to get expensive.
First Things First
In the beginning there is no need to worry about a solenoid, arduino, code, or network capability etc. Until the burner is mounted where it will stay, and lights and burns with 100% reliability, I will not be moving on to anything, period. I also want to mount 4 thermistors or the K-type thermocouple I have. I don't have an amplifier IC, so I cant really mess with my thermocouple. Though I do think that's where it's at, considering it can cover a pretty big swath of grill and give you a nice average. The thermocouple can do a wider range of temperatures, from -450F to 2500F, in fact. The bad news is, the supporting hardware, ie the amplifier, needs to be tuned to your expected range. In other words, the thermocouple can take extremes of temperature, but that doesnt mean it'll just plug and play and give you an accurate reading on anything from -450F to 2500. The amplifier circuit you use to read the thermocouple must be built with your expected range of operation in mind. If that doesnt make any sense, look up how thermocouples work. The thermistors also only have a band of a couple hundred degrees where they give good data, but the ones I have, wont work above 300F, which sucks. The difference between the thermocouple and the thermistor is the thermocouple wont break for heating beyond it's limit, it just wont do your math right and will give you a bunk reading. I cant say that for a thermistor. I get the feel you can break a thermistor based on what it looks like.
To make it way easier on myself, I'm going to take the grill off the frame and have it set up down here, so I can work on it like I would a motorcycle on a lift. That way I can get under it, behind it, beside it, flip it, roll it etc. Its really a necessity since otherwise I would be working in full sun, and I do mean full. Not a single photon is spared out there.
Traveling Forward In Time......
Im set up indoors now, much better. I can comfortably get to any area of the grill I need to get to and I can work sitting down, which is not only nice, but pretty necessary for me. Here's my ghetto grill lift--
|The grill sits in the crate I got my lathe in rather nicely. This worked out good--I can sit, I can easily slide the grill around, or flip it, or whatever.|
|Im not sure if Ill be able to mount the burner that low yet or not, but if I can, that's center. I read that at least one person uses a separate burner for the wood chips. It would be nice to have it like that, but I only have the one burner.|
This is where I think I want the knob to be. At this point there are so many possibilities for the condiment basket, I cant decide. For now Ill just focus on getting a working burner installed.
I need ideas on how to check for fire. One person I saw used an gas sensor to sniff for gas. I guess that works, but I have some problems with it. I want to actually check for fire. Now, how?
I will update this post rather than make a new one, once I decide on some things and I commit to those ideas. I don't want to sound like a dick, but you guys are no help, at all.
Just flipping the tray upside down changes everything.